Life Actually

My real stories, brought to you by the letter M and the number 4.

Sunday, August 28, 2005

Sticks and Stones may break my bones...

But a surfboard, coming at your face with the full force of a 6 foot wave definitely will.

So... yes, I went surfing today. With my little brother, we go about once a summer together usually. And today was great, waves were awesome... it wasn't sunny, but it was warm, and the rain on the ocean is just a cool thing to be sitting in the middle of. My brother did query whether or not a raindrop that falls back in the ocean feels that it has been cheated out of the water cycle.

Anyway, my last wave was amazing, the biggest one I'd sen all day, but I hadn't surfed on that big before, and my board started down the face of the wave WAY too fast, and then the nose of the board went under the water.... if you've ever surfed before, you know that that is a horrible thing. So I was flipped off my board, the board went under, I went under, and I knew right then it was going to be pretty bad. I stayed underwater as long as I could, let myself be tossed around a little, so that my board would have time to get to the front side of the wave I was in.

Unfortunately, when I stood up finally, the surfboard was NOT on the front side of the wave, it was on the front side of the following wave, and as I stood up to get air, it bashed me full in the face....

So, broken nose, broken teeth, and whiplash...

But at least I didn't get eaten by a shark!

Maren

2 Comments:

  • At 9:42 PM, Blogger Maren said…

    You think I should post the pics? They're kinda gnarly...I'm doing better though...

     
  • At 2:12 AM, Blogger Annelise said…

    How's your nose, Maren!? I think you should post the pics! ...and what a cool way to say you broke your nose! :) I hope it heals fast! knus, Annelise

     

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